Sunday, May 15, 2011

Southern Styles

A week of traveling to Virginia and North Carolina has produced some interesting experiences.  To begin with, NCAA Lacrosse has been particularly exciting, and I have been able to watch several of the games... one of which was won with one remaining second on the clock to the tie-breaker (Hartford/Stony Brook).

Between meetings, I was able to sneak off into the splendid Virginia Countryside (northwest of Charlottesville) in Madison County, where pre-dawn brook trout unskeptically took the flies I showed them.  Later in the day, when the shadows were long again, I pulled the waders over my suit trousers and caught a few more.



Pre-sunrise in Virginia

A small stream with trout hiding in the pockets and pools

Mrs. has a particularly charming fly-fishing outfit that gets stares from both man and beast.  She is hard to miss when she's in the wilderness in this.

Pink LLBean fishing vest
Pink fishing vest and pink Hermes scarf


Back home to Boston for a few days where a small nest-fallen bird perched on my finger at Government Center.



Again south days later, but to Chapel Hill where watching the lacrosse was great, the parties were fantastic, and a college friend got hitched to a beautiful woman during an outdoor ceremony.  I wore this to the rehearsal dinner.


A great shop on Main St. offers the reverse of my Brooks Brothers Shirt, though they were asking $170 for an off-the-shelf shirt (it was charming).  Obviously, this Yankee did not even consider it... bespoke shirts are often less.
Mine...
Their shirt


In their window was a blue cuff/collared shirt with blue elbow patches... I loved it.  My friends and I stopped when we saw this one.

The carpet in the hallways at Aloft Hotel reassured me of my sock choice an evening later. 



With a full 20 degree average increase in temperature compared to Boston, it was refreshing to stroll around wearing lighter cottons, naked ankles, and smiles.  The Virginia/North Carolina area is perfect right now, and people know how to dress for events... the heat has not set in yet, but the sun is out, and when I return to Boston, spring will still be in her moody phase.  Until then, I raise a glass to the upland south.

Monday, May 9, 2011

Sailing



Bean Value.
A Ratsey Bag... now made by LL Bean


What do you call this bag?  An LL Bean Bag?  A Boat and Tote?  Those are all modern names (Boat and Tote being the most awful).  The sure sign of an old Anglo salt is one who calls it a Ratsey Bag.  They were originally made of old scraps of hopelessly heavy sail cloth (canvas) from Ratsey Sailmakers.  If you live in the North East, your grandparents may still call it that, but you have likely had your brain marketing-infiltrated by the branditos who would have you believe that LL Bean invented this kind of bag.  Spare me the hate-email.  They are great bags, but they've been around a lot longer that any of us have, and by a different name.

___

Sailboats have always been the back-drops and sets for those wanting to define luxury (or "lug-zhurry").  The term "yacht" is a relatively loaded one, dripping with pretense, and deployed to advance the user a few rungs or attempt to impress one of several particularly naive young women.  

Sailboats, like polo ponies and aircraft, have traditionally been the devices of the very wealthy, devices which most of the same very wealthy people could not themselves expertly operate.  Fantastically rich brokerage house owners have no idea how to perform celestial navigation, overhaul a diesel at sea, or knot and splice... most have never seen genuine blue water.

Harold Vanderbilt sailed Ranger to America's Cup victory in 1937.  In those days, the J-class were enormous yachts.


Men like Starling Burgess and Olin Stephens designed them for the wealthy (below).


Granted, Vanderbilt had no shortage of capital, but he was one of the world's greatest sailors, and credited for inventing the modern (counted-down) racing start.  Olin Stephens is second from the left, and Harold stands at the helm with his tie clubbed, and wife Gertrude at his side.


Before Ted Turner started CNN and his clearing house for old and awesome movies, he was one of the world's greatest sailing skippers.  He and his team won the America's Cup in 1977.

For the win, he and (a very young) tactician Gary Jobson teamed up for what would be a hard-nosed but tight and effective team.

The Cup later was won and lost by Dennis Conner out of the San Diego Yacht Club.  It was the first time the Cup ever left the US.  It was at that point that the America's Cup became more like NASCAR.  Dennis Conner formed a syndicate that sought to raise funds by selling advertising on the sails and hulls of the yachts.  Fast forward to when the America's Cup was shamefully sailed by catamarans (similar to catamites) covered in corporate logos.  Protest hearings and pre-race receptions were no longer attended by gentlemen in blazers, ties, boat shoes, and khakis, but by high-fivers in Gore-Tex, lycra, and ball-caps.  Logos began to cover every square inch of the vessels, and the sailors no longer wore rugby shirts and sweaters, opting instead for kayaking helmets, life-vests, and wet-suits.  When the land-locked Swiss somehow won the cup, I completely gave up hope.


Beautiful vessels like this...


Were replaced with new contraptions like this...

Boats were once sailed by men like this...

(Greatest photograph in the universe, by the way)


And are now sailed with (not by) men like this...
Profile of America’s Cup Sail Racer Larry Ellison
Larry Ellison

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Racing Sailboats Professionally
The Image:
Men dressed handsomely drinking Champagne and martinis on the teak quarter deck of a luxury sailing yacht.  Parties with beautiful women, and all of your prep-school and college buddies also on the team with you.  Gallant sportsmen acting with generations of discipline, tradition, and honor.  Other fresh-faced college grads who could also race large boats very well.

Reality:
Manic-ego owners who don't know how to sail, mandatory gym work outs, stripped-down boats with no single comfort aboard, 18 and 20 year old New Zealanders and South Africans who can outsail anyone from Miami to Maine, and more canned beer than one could imagine.  Foul-mouthed jackass boat owners (not the professional skippers who actually won them) accept the trophies during regatta award ceremonies even though they nearly ruined the race.  There are also no gentlemen's agreements made... two or three racing syndicate owners may be old friends with your father, but that does not prevent them from wearing you thin and blaming you for the variations in wind direction.  Crushed fingers, bloody blisters, and eternally chapped lips are normal, and the team is generally expected to sleep aboard during race weekends.  Sunburn and raccoon tanlines from sunglasses that never seem to fade, and Russians who smoke cigarettes while sleeping, fixing an engine, or crawling through the hold.

-----

My wife and I attended a fashion designers party aboard a large sailboat years ago.  We both showed up in our summer white pants, me with a double-breasted blazer and tie, and a long dark green coat made out of rubberized vinyl from Helly Hansen flowing over the whole outfit:

Helly Hansen Highliner Skipper's Long Rain Coat - Waterproof (For Men and Tall Men)

I remember all of the fashionistas laughing and mocking us in our long coats and conservative clothing when we boarded... until the boat left the dock and sailed away from land.  The temperature dropped 25 degrees and gusted, and the summer day turned into (the usual) cold summer off-shore evening.  Soon, the stylishly and modern-dressed attendees began vomiting and shivering below deck, huddled into cowering lumps of pathetic sea-sick fashion throw-outs, while Mrs. and I chatted the skipper and afterguard on the quarterdeck who all wore coats similar to ours... warm and comfortable.  Thankfully, the hired bartender was in good form.

Just because something can be modernized doesn't mean it should be. 


Monday, May 2, 2011

Patterned Shirts With Ties

I have been reading through several emails this week concerning patterned shirts.  Stripes, plaids, and some of the more aggressive layouts seem to be on the minds of several people... enough to ask my unqualified opinion, apparently... so I will attempt to provide a bit on this.

Men's clothing should be about (among other things) contrast, control, and a bit of strategic spice.  "Matching" can be a bad move, though there are some exceptions.  With some of the more forceful shirts, the key is contrast... dumb the tie down a bit pattern-wise, and you'll be in safe territory (if that is the territory you prefer).  I recently unearthed a striped shirt that is only safe for warmer months, and I usually wear something tame with it.

Warm weather
Year-round

A recent email from a reader said "Your blog's trademarks are poorly written sarcasm and horribly taken photos".  Quite true, but he also forgot to mention my biggest feature: bad advice.

These shirts are odd ones.  On the left is an old Brooks Brothers outlet find with white collar and white French cuffs (something like $6, because nobody wanted it).  To the right, a Ralph Lauren Rugby shirt ($16 on Newbury St.) with a round collar, the fit of which I have never really liked.  Trade, anyone?


Below, ol' greeny (Ralph Lauren Store, also Newbury St... $29) is a bit more difficult for ties with the green, purple, and yellow, but as all patterned shirts do, it looks good with a navy 3-piece suit.


I usually wear something solid with it, like a purple.  For busier shirts, a tame tie will nearly always work, and in winter (the two on the right) flannel works nicely.  The black tie on the right is from the (proud new father of a lovely wee daughter) Mr. Midwester's Style Share. 


The obvious solution to buying somewhat pricier shirts: be patient, and NEVER pay the retail price.



If you are attending a Christmas or winter boozer, this may do.


Try out different patterns or solids, but keep it simple and geometrically dissimilar (gettin' sciency!)


If you are still a bit self-conscious, remember that a jacket or sweater will conceal this argument a bit.


Stripes on stripes (dissimilar in widths) work...

I checked the date on this photo... March 17, 2011


And unlike the loud, drunken, and unsolicited opinions with which a gal in a New Hampshire pub berated me, stripes and spots go very well together, thank you very much.

Stripes and polka dots


Louder shirts should not be left unworn in closet or drawer depths.  They do go well with suits and are generally seasonal.  Today, I had a revived shirt worn with whales (my father's tie from the 1980's).

Slightest pattern to the suit to fit the busy shirt


Old Brooks Bros. shirt, made into contrast collar/cuffs
My advice is to try out different combinations, and see what you like, what works, etc.  I hope that this post answers some of the emails you sent.