A few months ago, a friend of mine called and told me that someone he knew wanted to make a shirt for me. The offer seemed to be promotional, so I proceeded cautiously. We met at the location in the Back Bay and I was measured up in triplicate with not only the usual geometry expected from a tailored fitting, but with a few inexplicable crossings and tapings of a random hypotenuse here and there. As it turns out, I am able to shrug without moving my shoulders.
Instead of a tailored suit, I first tested the waters with a shirt. I flipped trough cloth after cloth, pattern after pattern, and then described the exact style I wanted, rounded French cuffs, tapered middle, blah blah blah.
A few weeks later, I got the call to come try on the shirt and pick it up if no further alterations were needed. I needed none, so I took it home.
Now, in full disclosure, I accepted no discounts or promotional anythings from the clothier. I paid the full price, so I could write whatever I pleased with a clear mind, 'cause I ain't no shill. When I got home, I compared the custom-tailored shirt to one of my trustworthy shirts in the closet.
Instead of a tailored suit, I first tested the waters with a shirt. I flipped trough cloth after cloth, pattern after pattern, and then described the exact style I wanted, rounded French cuffs, tapered middle, blah blah blah.
A few weeks later, I got the call to come try on the shirt and pick it up if no further alterations were needed. I needed none, so I took it home.
Now, in full disclosure, I accepted no discounts or promotional anythings from the clothier. I paid the full price, so I could write whatever I pleased with a clear mind, 'cause I ain't no shill. When I got home, I compared the custom-tailored shirt to one of my trustworthy shirts in the closet.
The cuffs are rounded on the tailored shirt.
The new tailored shirt did NOT have the split-yoke that my shirt did.
Same cut-away collar.
Same general look and fit. The tailored shirt did come with my monogrammed initials on them and some brass collar stays, but since I lose collar stays but never forget my initials, there is little value added. The fit was basically the same as the shirts I buy online (not literally off of an actual rack). The big difference was that the tailored shirt cost $130. My usual expenditure for shirts of the exact same cut is between $30 and $40. Why do I include these tacky little details of price in a blog post? I include them because this is an example of what tailoring gets you, especially with shirts. It's just too expensive. There is no magic fit, and no proportionate elegance. I like to support local businesses and I like to wear nicely fitting clothes, but not when I can get the same thing for 1/4 of the cost by being patient. Go to eBay or a thrift store for even deeper discounts.
If you want a really odd shirt with bizarre features and particular fabric, then tailoring may be for you. If you already know your size and measurements, and you have a trusted manufacturer, stay with it. If you are like me and think that paying full retail is a fool's game, you can have your clothing at deep discount and refine it afterwards. A blog about wearing clothing is one thing, but a blog about buying clothing is unreadable.
Verdict: Not worth the money.
I am a big advocate for after-market tailoring for better fit/saving money:
The tailored suit estimates were reasonably priced, and I may proceed with one from them in the future. I will report back if/when that happens.
P.S. Wikipedia has a hilarious and great explanation of what a shill is. It really is worth a quick read.
I suspect the advantage is for those where "off the rack" does not provide a good fit or when one wants a specific fabric in a specific style.
ReplyDeleteI seem to have unusually long arms, and when I first started working, I had to have some shirts made by a tailor. I agree with you that they were nice, but not worth the money. I eventually found some shirts at Saks that fit well, and stocked up on those.
ReplyDeleteAnother down-side to tailored clothes is that they have to go to the same cleaners that destroy all your other, more readily-acquired garments.
--Road to Parnassus
Is there a particular advantage to a split yoke? I always thought that it was just a fabric saving measure on behalf of the manufacturer.
ReplyDelete*DocP: Exactly. Elements that I don't need.
ReplyDelete*Parnassus: I hadn't even considered that angle. Very true.
*Phillip: The split yoke theoretically allows for better drape and for ease of altering. its a detail and not a necessity.
I had to crack a smile at the mention of the collar stays and monogram. I needed that.
ReplyDeleteI like Lewin shirts, but their slim fits are unforgiving.
Well done YWP. Good post.
ReplyDeleteThe Chinese definition for shill on Wiki has a similar hilarious effect...the counter part of shill in Chinese slang I guess...good read
ReplyDeleteBack to shirt, I agree with your thrift, but 130$ for this much fitting and detailing is actually reasonable among the made-to-measure shirt makers...
Chenlong
We're one of the made-to-measure companies online. We really do feel fit is everything, however I actually find that for my body type off-the-rack shirts fit well. That may not be the case for all men. In contrast, with a suit having a made-to-measure one makes a huge difference for me.
ReplyDeleteWe just introduced a line of custom fitted shirts and our mid-range is around the $130 price point as well. You do get some of the more unusual options though by going that route (French cuffs, etc.). For me, it's a rare occasion that I would wear French cuffs, but I do like having a couple of shirts in my wardrobe that take it up a notch in terms of fit and finish.
http://7regentlane.com
Nice blog. Keep up the good work.
ReplyDelete